Service · under NDA on every project
Defect correction
Diagnosis and correction of fit defects on existing patterns. From the problem to a documented technical solution, without rebuilding from scratch.
Service · under NDA on every project
Diagnosis and correction of fit defects on existing patterns. From the problem to a documented technical solution, without rebuilding from scratch.
Defect correction is the technical intervention on already-developed patterns that show fit or construction problems. A coat that pulls across the chest. A down jacket that gapes at the back. A sleeve that does not hang properly. A jacket that sits off-balance on the shoulders. These defects have precise technical causes in the pattern — and they are solved on the pattern, not at the sewing stage.
Atelier modArch carries out defect correction from physical samples or existing CAD files, identifying the geometric cause of the defect and applying the minimum correction required. The goal is to preserve as much as possible of the work already done, intervening only where necessary.
The process starts with the analysis of the physical sample or the existing CAD files. Teresita documents the identified defects photographically and produces a technical evaluation with the causes and the proposed corrections. The client approves the evaluation before the correction work begins.
The corrections are applied to the pattern (CAD or physical), with the technical sheet updated for all the sizes involved. On request, a verification fitting session is organised on the corrected sample.
The preliminary evaluation is free. Reply within 24 working hours of receiving the brief and the sample or files.
It is the question we receive most often: “I have a pattern that does not fit well — is it cheaper to correct it or to redo it from scratch?”. The answer depends on the nature of the defect. If the problem is localised — a dropped shoulder, a balance issue at the collar, an armhole that pulls — correction is almost always faster and cheaper than rebuilding. If the pattern has deep structural problems — wrong proportions, construction inconsistent with the material — rebuilding is almost always more efficient: the time spent chasing chain-reaction defects on flawed foundations soon exceeds the cost of starting again from correct ones.
The preliminary evaluation exists precisely for this: understanding which category your case falls into before committing budget. The verdict is documented with its technical reasons, and if the right answer is to rebuild we say so — the transition to the pattern making service is direct.
A defect on the base size does not stay on the base size: grading propagates it across the whole range, often amplifying it at the extreme sizes. A shoulder that pulls almost imperceptibly on a size 42 can become unacceptable on a size 50. This is why, in the studio's method, defect correction always precedes size grading: correcting a defect on one size costs one session; correcting it after grading costs the revision of the entire range — and if the garment is already in production, far more.
The diagnosis follows the same grid of checks used in fitting: garment balance, shoulder position, verticality of the seams, sleeve behaviour both static and in movement. The difference is the output: fitting produces the report of the issues, defect correction fixes them materially on the pattern. The technical vocabulary used in the reports is documented in the glossary.
We can work with either. With CAD files the process is faster and the modifications are applied directly to the digital pattern. With the physical sample alone, the measurements are taken and the modified pattern is reconstructed; time and cost increase proportionally.
For structural defects or major corrections, a verification fitting on the updated sample is recommended. For localised, well-documented corrections it is often not necessary. The recommendation is stated in the defect report.
Yes. Defect correction on third-party patterns is a frequent situation. It is handled with the same method: objective analysis of the defect, documented technical correction, no judgement on the previous work.