Service · under NDA on every project
Marker making
Consumption optimisation and waste reduction on technical and premium fabrics. Every metre saved counts, especially when the fabric is high-end.
Service · under NDA on every project
Consumption optimisation and waste reduction on technical and premium fabrics. Every metre saved counts, especially when the fabric is high-end.
Marker making is the process of arranging the pattern pieces optimally within the width of the fabric, to minimise waste and reduce the total consumption of raw material. On high-performance technical fabrics or premium materials — where the cost per metre is significant — a poorly optimised marker translates directly into higher production costs.
Atelier modArch handles marker making taking into account the specific characteristics of each fabric: nap direction, patterns to be matched, anisotropy of technical fabrics, folding restrictions for waterproof fabrics. The result is a marker file ready for the plotter and for the automatic cutting system.
Marker file in DXF AAMA or PLT format, compatible with the main automatic cutting systems (Lectra, Gerber, Bullmer, Zünd). Consumption sheet with utilisation percentages for each marker variant. Instructions for the cutting room.
The final quotation is issued after analysis of the pattern and the fabric specifications. Free preliminary evaluation, reply within 24 working hours.
In the industrial cost of a high-end garment, fabric is almost always the dominant item — and marker making is the only point in the process where that cost can be compressed without touching quality. The utilisation percentage (how much of the fabric roll becomes garment instead of waste) depends on how the pieces are laid out: algorithmic optimisation explores combinations that manual marker making cannot cover, while respecting the non-negotiable constraints — grain direction, nap direction, pattern matching. On a high-end fabric, every percentage point of utilisation gained translates into direct savings multiplied by all the metres in the batch.
There is, however, a quality constraint that comes before the saving: in luxury, certain compromises are not made. A check that is not matched between body and sleeve, a velvet with panels of mismatched nap, are visible — and they disqualify the garment. The right optimised marker is the best one possible within the aesthetic constraints, never at their expense.
Marker making is the last link in the pattern making chain: it comes after the pattern has been validated in fitting and developed across all sizes with grading — making a marker for a non-final pattern means redoing the work at every correction. To start, we need: the graded pattern files (native or DXF), the fabric specifications (usable width, direction, any pattern repeat) and the production size-mix, i.e. how many units per size the batch includes: the optimal consumption changes depending on how the sizes combine on the same lay. The service integrates into the studio's complete method or works as a standalone intervention on third-party patterns.
For most fabrics the technical specifications are enough: width, nap direction, any pattern (a photographic sample is sufficient). For fabrics with particular characteristics (stretch, distortion) it can be useful to have a physical sample for preliminary tests.
It depends on the type of garment and the fabric. On outerwear with complex construction, an optimised marker compared with an approximate one can reduce consumption by 5–15%. On high-end fabrics, the saving per batch adds up quickly.
It depends on the agreement. For complete commissions (pattern + size grading + technical sheet) the basic marker is often included or offered at a reduced cost. For commissions on an already-developed pattern, marker making is a separate service.